Purchasing tips on motor controller for City-El

[OlaE]

Hi.
A new motor controller that fits the City-El
http://www.ebay.com/itm/120943848981?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Please contact me if you want a programmer for it.

/Ola

 

[el El]

Der Preis von dem Ding ist gut, selbst wenn man Importsteuer bezahlen müßte - und keine core charge oder solcher Schmonsens.. Sven, das hab ich jetzt auch nicht ganz verstanden, was ist los?
LG Konstantin

 

[Sven Salbach]

ich hatte die einige male bestellt und ärger damit, einige andere auch.
Die haben oftmals alle den gleichen Fehler..
Wenn Du fährst und kurz Gas wegnimmst, meldet er scheinbar ein Fehler oder sowas und schaltet es...erst Sekunden später funktioniert er manchmal wieder, mal länger mal nicht so lang...
Der Chinese diskutiert rum und zögert bei Garantie..Versand nach China ist sehr teuer.

Deshalb habe ich schlussendlich doch den Kelly verbaut, was mich ziemlich ärgerte, da ich eigentlich den Curtis wieder haben wollte, da die im Grunde sehr zuverlässig sind.
Falls wer Interesse hat..habe gegen BAres ;-) noch den nahezu ungebruachten Curtis hier rumliegen. 36-48V 325A, programmiert auf 36V...

 

[OlaE]

Hi.
Do you mean from this supplier or the Curtis 1204M-5201 in general?
I have never heard of a problem with this before.

 

[Helixuwe]

Mein Kelly hat das gleiche Problem. Aber nur der Vorwärtsgang. Fahre ihn erst mal verpolt und muß halt beim Ausparken aufpassen.
Gruß Uwe

 

[Alan Lyman]

I think the problem,is when its used with a PM motor,like the PERM.The original Curtis for city el,has same problem.its because when you release the pedal,the motor generates current oppisite,and the Curtis sees that as a fault,and shuts off.
If you use it with a series motor like the TT-motor,there is no problem.


Olae,do you have a programmer for this curtis??

alan

 

[Sven Salbach]

all other chances are no problem...
But If you change the Voltage....fucking shit...its igonring the Voltage selektion then :-(

 

[OlaE]

all other chances are no problem...
But If you change the Voltage....fucking shit...its igonring the Voltage selektion then :-(

Is this with my programmer?

 

[Brian E]

Hello, i have the same problem Sven discribes, can anyone guide me to a solution for this problem? i dont speak German so it is hard for me to find the correct thread. Any help at all would be verry much appriciated.

 

[Sascha Meyer]

Hi Brian,
let´s try to help you. First of all can you describe your problem in detail?
I can only implicit that you are encountering issues when programming your controller, right?

Greetings from Saarland, Sascha

 

[Brian E]

Hello Sascha, thanks for the reply.

I don't know anything about electronics so programming it is not something i have ever done.
I bought my CityEL about a year ago and it started sometimes not doing anything while hitting the gas pedal.
The problem has been gradually becoming bigger and now I can't drive 500m without the gas pedal failing.
It does drive most of the time, but when you release the gas pedal it simply won't give gas again for a while. The reverse drive works fine when this happens and it will mostly drive after a few seconds when this happens, sometimes it takes a few minutes but mostly the gas works after about 10 seconds.
The clicking noise is gone as well, when this happens.

Regards,

Brian

 

[Alan Lyman]

Hi Brian

I dont think its the curtis.More probably the microswitch at the speederpedal.This is a common problem.DONT measure it,change it,and with a good quality,not a cheap one.
It could also be another problem,depending on which cityel you have.Try this.If you press the speeder a bit,and it works,and at the same time you press the brake pedal,and the speeder stops working,and the relay in the back releases,then you have a brake/speeder-relay,and that relay can also give problem.it needs to be shorted.
Alan

 

[Brian E]

Hello Alan,

Do you mean this red one? the contacts feel very flimsy so maybe there is some metal fatigue there.

Thanks for the tip!, I will let you know this helped!

Regards,

Brian

After toying around with this "Colvern Throttle lever potentiometer" thingy, one of the cabels fell off, pretty sure this is the problem, thanks Alan!

 

[Kamikaze]

the microswitch at the speederpedal.

Do you mean this red one?

The microswitch is located under the pedal-lever and usually the most visible part is a thin metal spring, that acts on the microswitch as soon as the pedal is moved from its idle-position.
Sometimes this spring acts more like a normal metal strip when it gets old and therefore gets bent, which results in the microswitch getting activated too late or not at all.

The red part is the "Gaspoti" (which translates roughly to: "Speed-Potentiometer"). That is basically a variable resitor (0-5.000Ohm if I remember correctly). This thing "tells" the motorcontroller (curtis) how much power you want the motor to get from the batteries.