pics of my car


Thanks Alan fore the answer above
" didnt find it untill now.."
could you trace on the pic of the motherboard where the
strombegrenzer wire is connected?
any more way to speed up the car?
you told me in a pm i could change to hgher sprocket/gear
do you have them for sale or do i have to make one?
im having as you maybe can see a double chain.
where all CityEl fitted with chain or even belt?



Aktives Mitglied
Hello Robert,
you have a "customized" vehicle !
The engine is not the standard one.
I suggest that you first try to drive the EL anyway.
Than you can tell us how fast the car is.
I doubt that the speed is limited to 30km/h because of the platine under the seat....

Perm Übersetzungen (Fact Four-F4-PMG 132):
70/21 (Untersetzung 3.3) Übersetzung F4 36 V bei 53 km/h
70/21 (Untersetzung 3.3) Übersetzung F4 48 V bei 63 km/h (rechnerisch)
70/17 (Untersetzung 4.1) Übersetzung F4 48 V bei 57 km/h
Batterie connection
You have to connect the Batterie so that you will have 36V.
1) Vehicle Minus / Batterie 1 minus
2)Batterie 1 plus / Batterie 2 minus
3)Batterie 2 plus / Batterie 3 minus
4)Batterie 3 plus / vehicle plus
To avoid the a "linghtning" when you connect the last wire, please read Richards post again.

Bernd M


customized ..! i dare sit my ass in it..maybe it will go like hell!
i have already check. no ejector seat. so at least i dont fly in the air..! :)
im very calm into starting it. dont want to ruin anything..

but its one thing that makes me wonder.. the former owner say he uses the 3 charger " c-tek"
for charge the batteri.. i wonder why..well i guess when i have coupled things togheter..

also another thing that i dont quite understand..
why so thin cables between the poles ? its supposed to be thick ones?
i have since before a golf cart im trying to fix
and the cables between those batteries " 8 volt" are thick as thuring sausages :)


Neues Mitglied
The usage of extra chargers is very common with the EL. Probably even more than using the original. The cables with the yellow plug seem to be charging conections then. Thick enough to cope with 10 A. The short thick black is one of the original conectors between two batterys an is 16mm square. That is enough for normal use but could be more for safty purposes.


Neues Mitglied
Allright, so far everything is like expected. You should find b+/b- now and try lights an so on. Disconect the brown plug that can be seen on your picture with the controler. Horn will not work and the two conectors and curtis either but it is save for the curtis.


i connected all the batteries " 2 old cars and 1 original that showed 11 volt or so"
putted the light bulb between the + cable and the + pole it lighted very bright upp and after
a 1-2 seconds it faded, i then connected the cable to the pole without loosing the light cable
tighten it. switch on..
and Eureka !!
everyhting works. . heat. horn. flash. lights etc..
put in reverse " since i have the garage in front and it moved !
the charge/power meter showed 40-45% so very little power
and the ado meter shows 12000 km.
i then put it forward but the batteries are too weak " and im a big guy"
so the car barely moved forward. maybe 1 meter or so..
but it moves!
now i just have to try to charge up the batteries and try again tomorrow
i think ill go for 3 car batteries.
at least i know their condition and i shoud be able to try it for a little
longer distance

el El

Bekanntes Mitglied
as long as you dont have to buy them car batteries its ok, otherwise you wont be happy: they dont last very long.
best regards,


i let my ex girlfriend daughter try it " shes 10 years and 35 kg"
a lot less weight then me..
it moved forward better!
Im the hero in the house now! :)

i have a junkyard near gere where i can buy used "but ok" car batteries for around 20 € each
sometimes they have Ultima for that price.,,
ill go tomorrow and see if i can find something better
later when im buying real batteries i can keep them for my other cars

regarding batteri charging. i once at Lidl bought a battery charger that seems to be a clone
to ctek..
anyone that have used it?


Neues Mitglied
Congratulations from me as well. But you have just done the first step out of this world and into the EL adventure. Car batterys or semicycle use are a bad idea for more than a trial. But enough for that on the other hand. When using old and different batterys you should charge each one seperatly. There is no need to disconect them for that as long as you just load one at a time. The working battery on your picture looks like a lead gel type. Batts of that type dont like high voltages at the end of the charging. Lead acid as used in cars must have this higher voltage, to mix up the acid and to equalise the 6 cells in one batt. So if your charger is not made for the gel type take care that the voltage is less than 14 Volts. It will not be fully charged then but it will not die either. You dont have to care that much for the car batterys because charging is the smaler problem for them:) they will break down anyway.


i charge them individually.since all the batteries are different

i have a few more questions

the "proper" batteries for these car is it the same as the " AGM " batteries?

on the right side of the speedo there is a meter
does it show how many amp i got or how many % of the battery?
with those "emergency" batteries it showns 40% and when i try to run it goes down on yellow or red

but basically i think i made a bargain. i just need new batteries i think.
then the car is register as moped so no tax and very low insurance

for the speed ill put a switch so if the cops shows up i switch it to 30 km/h
"btw. we dont have cops here"


to be honest i dont think i will drive in the winter .
i live to far up in Sweden and its getting lots of snow and cold
the range is not that important either.
i have approx 3-4 km to the village and im thinking to use the car
when im going to the post and similar things..
so say a range of 15-20 km will be more then enought
i want more a higher top speed then long range
if i can get up to 70 or maybe 80 km/h it would be great
for the voltage i dont care so much. original is 36 and ill loke to keep
the original motor if possible " want to keep costs down"

Christian s

Bekanntes Mitglied
80 kmh is suizide if a little thing eg at the wheels os the axle happens... for your little distance i think 50 will be enough


you mean 50 Mp/h Christian? :xcool:

i agree.. 80 may be little to much.. but ill like to cruise at 60-70
"the new one do 65 or something" then if i can make it go little faster
it can be usefull sometime if i have to pass another car


todays news...
changed all batteries to ordinary ones
then took it for a test drive.. the wheel spinned on gravel !
who hoo !! the volt meter on the side showed around 34-5 volts"not full meter"
got a top speed of around 45 km/h
so with real batteries i shoud come up to around 50-60 ?

but now i have even more question.." you more i read about electric cars you more questions i have "

the car goes on 3 batteri.. can i change to 4 ones so i get 48 volts instead?
will the electronic and motor survive that ?

also im readin on internet that people scrap the lead battery and go for lithium battery packs
for RC cars and airplanes..

can these be true? i mean.. those batteries are really small compared to lead.
so if i buy LiFePO4 " 12 volt/40amp" say 6 of those packs i should get 36 volts and 40 lithum amps

basically that battery pack is smaller then just 1 lead battery..!
i could even put more of those battery pack behind the battery space " where the passengers have its feet..?

its sounds allmost to good to be true..


Neues Mitglied
...and it is quite near to truth anyway. Your Motor will survive higher voltages but the controller may not. Some do 48V but many do not. Litium is very common in ELs but not the small rctype cells. People use 60Ah cells or bigger to make sure that the cells can stand the high current of 120A or more. Those cells last 6 years or longer. (Not without charging of course :)) And this cells are quite affordable. NiCd is the other alternativ to lead. Strong easy to use but between the two others in weight. I decided to use NiCd but there are good reasons for both kinds. I can hardly find any for lead. Have you measured the voltage while charging the batts? Do you have the oportunity to count the kWh you charge?


Bekanntes Mitglied

Check the curtis the voltage is written on the side with the cover.

Then you have to add resistors to the coil of the two Power Contactors and a Resistor to the wiper.

A 12V Zener diode in the line to voltage meter on the Dashboard.

And then you have to do a new adjustment on the current limiter if it is the version 4

Then reprogramming the charger an o bigger fan for the charger.

When you cut out the triangle metal part of the batterieholder opposite of the motor you can put 4 70AH batteries in the holder




thanks for the tips !

a totally other question..
im planning to keep the car in a empty room " i live in a old former school" for the winter
the problem is that the wide of the door is around 90 cm so it will not fit..
so i was thinking . take of the top and lift in sideways "with a help of a friend"
is it much work to take off the top?

Thanks for the help


Neues Mitglied
It is quite easy to take of the top. Some do this twice a year. Basic in winter and targa during summer. You have to loosen the wiper and the screen washer. The part that holds the top is located under the black plastic part in front of the steering. The top is fixed with screws on either side. Two in the front and two at the rear end of the holder. Do not loosen the adjusting screws. Only the ones that point to the left or right. Loosen all the screws but dont take them out. Stand in your EL and hold the top. Let your helper take out the screws. The top can be slipped forward and of the holder now. Be carefull not to damage the black plastic part with the hub release lever. Some take out the windscreen before. I do so because I only have one for both tops. Others do it fore safety and to make the top light.

EDIT the top is lifted up (open) during the whole procedure.